Air Conditioner Repair In Kolkata By Techyuga

The worst thing to happen in your life is when air conditioner stops working in a hot summer day, Being the No.1 ac repair center in kolkata, techyuga is here to help you out with your air conditioner issues. Here is a list of common problems and troubleshooting. So read this blog about ac repair in kolkata –

Ac repair in kolkata

Common Air Conditioner Problems

First to begin with ac repair in kolkata, we have a list of problems you might face while using an air conditioner, her you go –


Central AC Not Working At All

1. Check the main electrical panel and any secondary circuit panels for a tripped breaker or blown fuse. If you find the problem there, reset the breaker by turning it off and then on or replace the fuse. A central air conditioner should be on a dedicated 240-volt circuit.

If the breaker continues to trip, there is probably a short in the system—in the compressor, capacitor, or the fan motor. You’ll need an electrician to track down and solve this problem.

2. Make sure the thermostat is set to COOL and its temperature setting is at least 3 degrees below the ambient room temperature.

3. Make sure the power is on. Check the switch in the furnace or air handler, and the outdoor condenser. Also be sure the compressor’s 240-volt disconnect, typically in a metal box mounted near the compressor, hasn’t been shut off.
With this type of electronic thermostat, you pull off the body to access the baseplate and wires.

4. Remove the thermostat’s cover after turning off the power to the air conditioner. Remove the thermostat’s body from the base (usually by pulling straight out) and replace the batteries (if it has batteries). Be sure all wires are properly attached to their terminals and will not be pinched by the cover. Replace the cover and wait 3 or 4 minutes, and then try the system again.

5. If that doesn’t do the job, open the thermostat and unscrew the wire from the Y terminal. Turn the power back on. Holding the wire by its insulation only, touch the bare end to the R terminal and hold it there for about two minutes. If the compressor kicks on, the thermostat is faulty; replace it as discussed in the article How to Install an Electronic Thermostat. If the compressor doesn’t go on when you hold the Y wire to the R terminal, turn the power back off and either call an air-conditioning technician or check the capacitor.

6. Check the compressor’s capacitor and wires. The capacitor in the compressor starts both the condenser and the fan. If the capacitor has failed, the A/C unit will not run. It’s very easy to test whether it works and it is cheap and easy to fix if it doesn’t.
Before opening the electrical cover on the A/C unit, be sure to shut off all power to the unit and verify that it is off. Remove the cover and, using a digital multi meter set to “Capacitance,” put one lead on the “Common” terminal and the other lead on one of the other two terminals. The meter should show a number—not “OL” which indicates a short. A/C capacitors can be like two capacitors in one, with both sharing the common leg.
Here is a video that shows more precisely how to do this. Tip: Take a quick digital photo of the wires before disconnecting them so you know where to replace them.

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ac not working


AC Not Cooling Well

If you can hear your central air conditioner running, but it doesn’t cool well, the problem can be caused by a couple of issues. Make sure nothing is blocking or limiting air flow anywhere in the system—the air filters, registers, and the compressor. For more about filters, see How to Replace Furnace & AC Filters.
A kinked refrigerant line, or a blower fan that isn’t running right can cause this, too. Next, check the air handler:

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How to Check the Indoor Air Handler

1. Turn off the power to the air conditioning air handler or furnace. If the air handler is a gas furnace, turn off the gas at the gas valve that serves the furnace.

2. Remove the door on the front of the air-handler cabinet so you can access the filter. Pull out the filter and clean or replace it as necessary.

3. Look for ice. If you see ice in the area around the coils, close the unit back up, turn the power back on, and turn on the fan. The ice should melt within an hour or two.

Only two things cause an AC air handler to freeze up: 1) reduced air flow because of dirty filters, coils, or poorly working fans, and 2) low refrigerant level, which is something that must be checked and recharged by a pro. Reduced air flow is the most likely problem.
4. Clear the condensate drain. Air conditioners can create a lot of water because they remove moisture from the air. To get rid of this, they have a [usually plastic] drain pipe that comes out of the side of the air handler. Over time, algae can block this pipe and, when it does, the AC won’t work—in fact some condensate drains are equipped with a float switch that won’t let the AC run if water backs-up. Water is also likely to puddle around the unit or even flood the area.  Would you like to check more about ac repair in kolkata by techyuga? Read what our customers are saying about us, HERE.

To deal with condensate problems, please see Air Conditioner Leaks Water, below.

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How to Check the Outdoor Compressor

1. Turn off the power. Before cleaning the compressor, be sure to shut off all power to the unit and verify that it is off.

2. Clean the outdoor compressor. For complete instructions, please see Air Conditioner Doesn’t Cool Well. This video does a good job of showing you how to clean the coils:

3. Make sure the compressor is working. When you set the thermostat to a temperature below the room temperature, you should hear the outdoor compressor run and see the fan turning inside the top. If the fan isn’t turning, look for an overload button or switch to reset (not all types have this). Stick a screwdriver or stick down through the top grille and try to spin the fan blades clockwise. They should spin freely. If doing this gives the fan enough of a boost to get it going, the unit has a faulty capacitor that must be replaced. See Step 6 under Central AC Not Working At All, above.

4. Have the coolant checked. If none of these steps worked, the chances are pretty good that the coolant needs to be recharged by an air conditioning professional. Call a qualified local AC professional—this is not something you can do yourself.
If your room has dramatic swings in temperature before the system kicks on, see Room Temperature Too Hot, Then Too Cold. If you have any other query about ac repair in kolkata you can directly talk to our technical experts here in Live Chat

Need help about your ac repair in kolkata ? get help from kolkata’s best ac service center.


ac not blowing air


Air Conditioner Not Blowing Air

If your AC doesn’t go on at all when you set the thermostat for a cooler-than-room temperature, please read Central AC Not Working At All, above. Then, if you have fairly good DIY skills and a multimeter, go through the diagnostic steps in this video to determine whether the problem may be a condensate pump switch.

If your air handler isn’t blowing air properly, the indoor evaporator coil may be dirty or frozen up. Reduced air flow, whether caused by dirty filters, a dirty coil, dirty squirrel cage blower, or a broken fan motor will cause the coil to freeze up, blocking air flow.
If your air handler’s motor runs but the blower doesn’t move air, the belt that connects the two probably has broken. Replacing it is an easy fix if you have a few tools and do-it-yourself skills. Need help about your ac repair in kolkata ? get help from kolkata’s best ac service center.

Here’s how to replace the air conditioner’s blower belt:

1. Turn off all power to the unit and, if the air handler is a gas furnace, turn off the gas at the gas valve that serves the furnace.

2. Remove the door on the front of the air-handler cabinet to give you access to the blower (it might be on a slide-out drawer.) Check the number stamped on the belt and get an exact replacement from a home center or heating supply outlet.
ac not working motor pulley

First, fit the belt onto the motor pulley.

3. You can usually slip the belt on the motor’s (smaller) pulley first and then start it on the blower pulley, as shown at right. Rotate the blower pulley by hand, holding the belt in place but keeping your fingers from getting caught between the belt and the pulley. The belt should slip right into place. If it seems to be too tight or difficult to set in place, it may be necessary to adjust the motor mount to provide more slack. Then you can re-tighten the tension once the belt is in place. Check the manufacturer’s specifications for proper tension—in most cases, the belt should deflect about an inch when you press down on it.

4. Lubricate the blower. Finally, some blower motors need oiling; some have sealed bearings. If recommended by your maintenance manual, oil the bearings according to the manufacturer’s directions.
If the blower motor hums but doesn’t run, you’ll probably need to replace the blower motor. This video shows how to replace the motor.

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Air Conditioner Leaks Water

If water is dripping or pooling at the base of the air handler, it may be leaking from one of the plastic pipes or tubes that carry it, something may be blocking the water’s flow, or the condensate pump may not be working. If the pump stops working, it will overflow.

Float switch is designed to shut off the A/C unit if the drain becomes clogged.
On some air handlers, the condensation drainpipe has a small safety float switch (see photo) connected to it. If the drainpipe backs up with water, the float switch will shut off the air conditioner. This is a sure sign that it’s time to clear the condensation drainpipe.

1. If your system includes an electric condensate pump, make sure it is connected to a working electrical outlet. Then look to see if the tubing that carries away the water has come loose from the pump. If it has, reconnect it.
More likely is the possibility that the tube or the pump is clogged with algae. If this is the case, use a wet-dry vacuum to suck all of the water out of the tube. In some cases, it might be easier to replace it with new 1/2-inch tubing purchased online, at an HVAC supply shop, or at a well-stocked home improvement center.

2. Test the pump by pouring water into its collector. The pump, which is turned on by a ball float inside that rises with the water level, should start. If it doesn’t, it is stuck or broken. If it’s stuck, you should be able to disconnect it from the power and from the inbound tubes, disassemble the top, and clean it out thoroughly. If it’s quite old or broken, you’re probably better off replacing the condensate pump so you don’t have to do this again in the near future.
To kill algae, pour a dilute solution of bleach (1 part bleach to 16 parts water) into the pump’s trough and pump it out through the tube. Don’t do this on you lawn—it will kill the grass.

3. If the pump runs but doesn’t empty the trough, the ball-like check valve just before the discharge tube is probably stuck. Unscrew the check valve, loosen the ball inside, and look for an obstruction and a build-up of algae. If it appears that a condensation drain tube is clogged with algae, remove it if possible (you may have to cut it and replace it later with a coupling). Blow it out or run a wire through it to clear it—or, better still, replace it with new tubing.
4. Ice may be blocking the tube. If this is the case, clean or change your AC filters. If the filters appear to be fine, the air conditioner’s refrigerant supply is probably low. Call an air-conditioning technician to have the unit recharged. If you need help about your ac repair in kolkata ? get help from kolkata’s best ac service center.


Source : Hometips


Tips for ac maintenance :


ac repair


After we have discussed about the troubleshooting and ac repair in kolkata let’s read these essential tips for air conditioner maintenance.


Remove Debris

This is an essential air conditioner maintenance habit to clean debris regularly. On the exterior condenser/compressor, remove the fan cage. Using a screwdriver or wrench, remove the fasteners and lift the cage or fan grill away from the top of the unit. By hand, or with a wet/dry vacuum, clean leaves and other debris from the interior.


Clean The Fins

Fins of you air conditioner get studded with dust and particles, you must clean them often. With a strong stream from a garden hose, spray through the fins from the inside out to blast any built up dirt or debris from between them. Never use a pressure washer, since the pressure can damage the fins. If the fins are particularly dirty, use a commercially available fin cleaning spray (available at home improvement centers; read and follow manufacturer directions).


Straighten The Fins

This is what needs time and patience. Since any reduction in air-flow through the fins can reduce efficiency, carefully straighten bent fins using a butter knife or commercially available fin-straightening tool. Be gentle so that the tubing embedded within the fins is not damaged.

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Clean Area Around The Unit

Once finished with the cleaning, replace the fan cage. Rake back leaves and debris outside the condenser and cut back branches and vegetation at least 2 feet in all directions to ensure proper airflow around the unit. During winter months when the condenser is not in use, it’s good to cover the top of the unit with a piece of plywood or plastic to keep debris from falling in. However, don’t completely cover the unit’s sides, since moisture can build up inside and cause corrosion. Also, a completely covered unit encourages vermin to build nests inside. Remove any cover when the unit is operating.


Level the Unit

Over time, the pad upon which the condenser unit sits can begin to tip as the soil settles beneath it. An out-of-level condenser unit can cause the compressor within to fail early. Check the condenser for level and use rot-resistant shims to bring it back to level. Service Experts’ Moody adds this exception: “If you have a heat pump system, it’s okay for the pad to be slightly sloped away from the home’s foundation to allow for defrost run-off during the winter.”


Clean the Evaporator Coil

Now it’s time to move inside. On the inside blower/furnace unit, find the evaporator coil door. You may need to remove some foil duct tape and take out a few screws or bolts. Inside, use a soft brush to dust off the coil, then spray the coil with commercially available no-rinse coil cleaner (available at home improvement stores). The spray will foam up and then drip into the drain pan. Clean out the drain pan with soap, hot water, and a little bleach. Then, pour a cup of 50% bleach/50% water down the drain. To keep the drain clear longer-term, place a commercially available drain pan tablet in the pan. This will inhibit future algae growth.
If the bleach solution drains easily, skip the next step. If not, move on to next step. Replace the evaporator coil door and use foil duct tape to re-seal, if necessary.

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Clean a Plugged Evaporator Drain

On the interior, warm, humid air from your home’s interior is blown through the evaporator coil. The cold coil absorbs heat from the air, cooling it, before the air is circulated back into your home. The humidity in the air condenses on the cool surface of the evaporator coil as liquid water, dripping into a pan below. From the pan, the water flows into a drain tube which is typically routed into a basement floor drain, utility sink, or outdoors.
Over time, algae and mold can build up and potentially plug the drain, so if the drain is either not flowing or flowing very slowly, it will need to be unplugged. A plugged drain can either cause damage by flooding onto the floor or, if the system is equipped with a drain float, cause the system to stop cooling in order to avoid flooding.
First, find the drain line where it leaves the evaporator coil enclosure. The drain is usually a one-inch PVC pipe (white, grey, or black). Follow it to the end where it drains. Often the line drains outside near the condenser unit, but it can also drain into a utility sink or basement floor drain or, in the case of attic units, down an outside wall.
Once located, use a wet/dry vacuum to clear the drain. It’s best to remove the paper filter from the wet/dry vacuum so as not to ruin the filter. Hold the hose of the wet/dry vacuum to the end of the drain line. You can use duct tape or simply hold a rag around the gap. Turn on the vacuum for 2-3 minutes then turn off. This will clear the drain of any growing biological matter. Would you like to check more  about ac repair in kolkata by techyuga? Read what our customers are saying about us, HERE.


Change The Blower Filter

The filter in your HVAC system should be changed at least twice a year – once just before the heating season begins and once before the cooling season begins. If you live in a particularly dusty area, you may want to change it more often. Always replace the filter with a new filter that has the same airflow rating. Again, Moody cautions, “Be careful with ‘air purifying’ or HEPA filters,” he says, “because they can dramatically reduce airflow in your system. That can cause the indoor coil to freeze because of the reduced airflow.”
Locate the filter enclosure on the indoor furnace/AC where the large fresh air return duct enters the unit. You may need a screwdriver to turn the latch to open the door to the filter enclosure. Remove the old filter and install the new filter, matching the air-flow direction arrows on the filter to the arrows on the unit. Close and latch the door.Need help about your ac repair in kolkata ? get help from kolkata’s best ac service center.


Hope this blog has helped you about ac repair in kolkata.


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jingyansu choudhury

jingyansu choudhury

Hello World, I am the Founder And CEO Of Techyuga. I am working on building Techyuga to become India's No.1 end-to-end repair hub for all kinds of devices.